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Fig. 1. Water velocities produced by unbroken surface gravity waves. In each case,
velocity has been normalized to wave height so that these curves apply equally
to waves of all heights. (A) Flows at the surface. (B) Flows just outside the
benthic boundary layer at the seabed. T is wave period, in seconds.
The depth referred to on the abscissa is the depth of the water column in the
absence of waves.
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